Monday, December 22, 2008

Chateau Potensac 2004 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

The vineyards of Potensac are located in Ordonnac, in the Médoc appellation, and incorporate the vines of three properties managed as a single entity, these being Potensac, Gallais-Bellevue and Lassalle. There is a rigorous selection for the grand vin Chateau Potensac, with about 40-45% of the crop going to the second wine, which today is bottled as La Chapelle de Potensac, although Chateau Lassalle has also been used as a second label in the past.

During recent decades the vineyard has been slightly dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon which accounts for about 60% of the vines, with approximately 25% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc in addition, planted at an average 8000 vines/ha. But with the purchase of new Merlot vines there is naturally a swing towards this variety, and it is notable that the 2005 vintage included more Merlot than Cabernet (41% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc) in the final blend. Yields are restricted to approximately 35 hl/ha, and once harvested by hand the fruit is fermented at a maximum temperature of 28ºC in stainless steels and concrete vats, with 15 to 18 days maceration and constant pumping over.

Like Sociando-Mallet, Potensac is yet another chateau which illustrates the defunct nature of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux. Potensac regularly turns out wines of classed growth quality, but has only a Cru Bourgeois designation, although in the Cru Bourgeois classification of in 2003 (which subsequently collapsed following a legal challenge), it was accorded Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel status, a short-lived recognition of the quality to be found here.

2004
Youthful hue, quite attractive, although this isn't matched on the nose which is quite closed down, with just a suggestion of some dark fruits when the wine is worked hard. A cool style, quite well textured, good tannic grip, but it is in keeping with the rest of the wine. An admirable style with good potential.

1996
A dark, claretty hue, with a cherry red rim. The nose is dark, smoky, with crisply bright yet deep, meaty fruit. More of the same on the palate, where the fruit has a precise, admirable presence with a warm, roasted yet fresh style. This has a very well defined structure, very upright, classic in nature, with a fine grip beneath. There is some bitterness to the fruit, which adds a delightful complexity.

Grape varietals : 46% Cabernet-sauvignon, 16% Cabernet-franc, 36% Merlot, 2% Carmenere.

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