Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006

Chateau Phélan-Ségur dates from the early 19th century, when two St Estèphe estates were brought together, purchased by the wealthy M Phélan. The lesser of these was the Clos de Garramey, but the more impressive was Ségur, once part of the estate of Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, otherwise known as the Prince of Vines, who owned a few other estates that went by the illustrious names of Brane-Mouton, Lafite (both destined to come to the Rothschild family) and Latour. Hence, with the construction of a most imposing residence which puts many classed growth properties to shame, including an impressive chai and cellar, Chateau Phélan-Ségur was born.

The vineyards at Phélan-Ségur amount to 64 ha in all, approximately one third of the estate which is 180 ha all told. The vineyards are located on a gravelly mound, and are planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc at a density of about 8500 vines/ha and an average age approaching 35 years.

The winery is high tech, with Gardinier being one of the few proprietors to admit to reverse osmosis, to which both the 1998 and 1999 vintages were subjected. Fermentation is temperature-controlled in stainless steel, all this kit being stored in Phélan-Ségur's capacious chai. The wine sees eighteen months in oak, 50% new, before fining, filtration and bottling.

2006
This has sweet, nutty oak and dark fruit evident on the nose. A supple, gentle character on the palate, but with a lot of tannins underneath, although admittedly with a ripe feel to them.

2009
A very dark hue, with a nose of macerated black cherry. The palate possesses a rather dry shell of fruit, supple and fairly reserved, and the tannins here seem quite well composed. There is nice acidity, and a touch of vigour to it. Only moderate concentration here, but as a whole it is sensibly done, and therefore admirable.