Monday, October 5, 2009

La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet 2004

Sociando-Mallet is one of those chateaux which makes a mockery of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux. Never entered into the classification of Cru Classé chateaux, and subsequently classified as a Cru Bourgeois in 1932, it consistently turns out wines which outshine those produced by many of its more illustrious neighbours.
(Chateau Potensac 2004)

The history of Sociando-Mallet extends back at least as far as the early 17th Century, as records reveal that the estate was the residence of a Basque nobleman named Sociando in 1633. Otherwise the ancient history of the estate is sketchy, although the owner at the time of Revolution is known to have been a prominent lawyer named Guillaume de Brochon, who was prosecuted and stripped of his property which was broken up for sale. The new proprietor was a gentleman named Lamothe, although it subsequently passed to a naval captain by the name of Mallet, and thus the property was given the name Sociando-Mallet.

Sociando-Mallet was a somewhat dilapidated property in 1969 when acquired by Jean Gautreau. The vineyard and chateau sits right on the Gironde, in the commune of St.-Seurin de Cadourne, just to the north of St Estephe. The vineyard is on a gravel croupe that slopes away from the buildings at the top of the estate. The varieties planted are 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the remaining 5% part Cabernet Franc and part Petit Verdot. The harvest is manual, and once in the cuvier the fruit is fermented in both concrete and stainless-steel vats, with temperatures up to 33°C to encourage the extraction of tannins. The wine is then macerated for three weeks, before going into oak, 100% for the grand vin, Chateau Sociando-Mallet (typically 20000 cases per annum), although in the case of the second wine La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet 20% goes into oak and the rest remains in cuve.

La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet 2004
50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot. Good depth of character on the nose, quite concentrated for a second wine, smoky, with a little sous bois. Rather lightfooted on the palate, nicely textured, with an appropriately low level of tannin. A good style, but the 2005 La Demoiselle that followed is eminently superior.

Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Medoc) 2004
A glossy hue, and a lovely nose of stylish, dark fruits. Quite fresh, cherry perfume, overall a very appealing style. The palate is supple and softly composed at first, but there is substance underneath it all, with nicely composed acidity and tannins.

Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Medoc) 2000
There is a lovely depth of aroma here, a nose full of leafy blackcurrant fruit, with a fresh and rather surprising seam of mint and a green peppercorn lift. Nice weight, softly composed, and still in possession of quite a grip and tannin beneath it all.